Uncover Bliss in Kyoto’s Secret Spot, Kurochaya, with Vinyl and Tranquility

A New Space Growing in Over-Touristed Kyoto, Made for Ourselves

Kyoto is undeniably a unique place. Over the past few years, I’ve visited more frequently and discovered several favorite spots. Each of these places carries an atmosphere that can only be experienced in Kyoto. There’s a special charm here, something distinct that you don’t find in shops in Tokyo or Osaka.

In recent years, Kyoto has often been discussed in the context of over-tourism due to the growing number of visitors. It’s clear when walking through the busy streets that the city is filled with tourists, and I’ve heard that more places have become difficult to access. Some of my favorite music venues, too, are often crowded with tourists, making them no longer the kind of spots you can just pop into. I imagine that for the businesses themselves, there’s more to the situation than simply being pleased with the influx of customers.

As the city’s environment undergoes rapid change, it seems that more people are seriously thinking about how to continue enjoying themselves and create spaces for their own enjoyment. I’ve heard that in Kyoto, many places are now operating in a way that maintains a vibe for the local community and dedicated customers—like music spots with undisclosed addresses or “locals-only” music bars that can only be accessed through introductions from regulars. Kurochaya is one such place that fits into this context.

The Atmosphere of the Space is Maintained by Those Who Gather

I first discovered Kurochaya in Fushimi through a friend’s Instagram. A few years ago, my friend Hayato Kamiya, who works at Kyoto’s Hachi Record Shop and Bar, shared a photo of himself playing records at a beautiful spot, and I was immediately drawn to it. Curious, I asked him, “Where is this place?” He told me, but there was no address listed anywhere on the Instagram account. When I asked for more details, I learned that Kurochaya isn’t a regular shop. Instead, it’s a mysterious space that the owner, Coji, opens occasionally for events.

Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of tourists, you step into an old Japanese house, leaving your shoes behind, and are immediately taken by the beautifully renovated interior. The furniture and decor, which complement the natural wood texture, spark a sense of wonder. As you move towards the back room with its open ceiling, you catch a glimpse of the meticulously cared-for garden. The light streaming through the windows above and the glass doors facing the garden creates an incredible sense of openness. When I visited for the first time, I couldn’t help but mutter, “Wow…” I was truly surprised to discover such a stunning hidden gem, quietly tucked away from the world.

Hayato Kamiya and Coji regularly host an event called SHELTER at this space. The event is announced through Instagram, either by Kurochaya, Coji, or Kamiya. If you send them a message, they’ll share the address, and that’s how you finally find the location.

The event runs on Sundays, from 10 AM to 3 PM. Kamiya selects records and CDs to play, while Coji brews coffee. Visitors are free to relax and enjoy their time however they like—whether that’s chatting with others, reading a book, or simply unwinding.

To get the address, you have to send a message, and then travel to a location far from the city center. This small barrier likely plays a role in maintaining the unique atmosphere of the space.

Coji and Kamiya don’t treat visitors like “customers,” and the visitors themselves aren’t there with the mindset of just receiving service. The peaceful, calming environment exists because people who truly appreciate the space gather and enjoy it freely, while also helping to preserve its charm. Every time I visit, I feel this more deeply. I believe it’s the building’s own special allure that makes you want to return and wish for it to remain open for years to come.

This Space Inspires Unique Selections You Can’t Find Anywhere Else

Kurochaya isn’t a place where the owner picks and plays music on their own, but there’s definitely a sense of “music that belongs to this space.” Hayato Kamiya, who curates the playlist for SHELTER, specializes in jazz. He plays just the right kind of jazz and jazz-adjacent music that perfectly fits the calm atmosphere of the old house, with soft light pouring in and the scent of coffee in the air.

His selections—like the mellow cornet player Ruby Braff and the legendary pianist Kirk Lightsey, who supported Chet Baker in the 1960s—blend perfectly with the vibe of Kurochaya. Records by pianist Don Shirley, whose work inspired the film Green Book, also fit seamlessly, as did the folk-infused, chamber music-style jazz by clarinetist Jimmy Juffrey.

The selections aren’t intended to surprise or show off rare records; instead, they’re carefully chosen to create a relaxed atmosphere, with music that feels just right for a Sunday morning. The light, swinging rhythms seem to gently set the tone for the start of the day. The charm of the space brings out these perfect selections, and in turn, the music helps shape the atmosphere. I’ve never experienced such a strong connection between a space and its music before.

I’ve actually had the chance to be a guest selector at Kurochaya as well. For the occasion, I brought along CDs that I often listen to when I want to relax at home. It was a lot of fun picking music that I wouldn’t typically play as a DJ, like ballad-focused jazz vocals or solo piano with a bluesy vibe. What made it particularly enjoyable was selecting music that felt perfectly in tune with the atmosphere of Kurochaya. It wasn’t so much about playing for an audience, but rather curating the right music for the space itself. Finding the right volume to create the perfect background vibe was also a fun challenge. Although I often do curation work, this space gave me the opportunity to create a selection that could only happen here.

Whether standing at the bar counter, sitting in a chair, or lounging cross-legged by the low table, I enjoy simple conversations with others and listen to the music. There’s a unique, blissful experience at Kurochaya that can’t be found anywhere else. When I visited in February, I spent the perfect afternoon dozing off by the wood stove, soaking up the sunlight. Without a doubt, Kurochaya has become one of the main reasons I go to Kyoto.

5 Records Selected by Kamiyama for SHELTER

・Johnny Smith『The Man With The Blue Guitar』
・Don Shirley Trio『Water Boy』
・Jimmy Giuffre『Trav’lin Light』
・Petros Klampanis『Rooftop Stories』
・Brandon Ross『Puppet』

5 Records Selected by Coji from Kurochaya

Sachal Vasandani “Still Life”

Thomas Bartlett “Shelter”

Sandrayati “Safe Ground”

Kazuma Fujimoto “Flow”

Wilson Tanner “69”