Tucked away in Kyoto’s Fushimi district, Kurochaya is a traditional house with a secret address, opened exclusively for special events. This hidden gem, with its one-of-a-kind atmosphere, has become a whispered secret among music lovers in the Kansai area. In the 12th edition of the series “Places to Encounter Good Music,” music critic Mitsutaka Yanagira takes us inside this captivating space.
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A New Space Growing in Over-Touristed Kyoto, Made for Ourselves
Kyoto is undeniably a unique place. Over the past few years, I’ve visited more frequently and discovered several favorite spots. Each of these places carries an atmosphere that can only be experienced in Kyoto. There’s a special charm here, something distinct that you don’t find in shops in Tokyo or Osaka.
In recent years, Kyoto has often been discussed in the context of over-tourism due to the growing number of visitors. It’s clear when walking through the busy streets that the city is filled with tourists, and I’ve heard that more places have become difficult to access. Some of my favorite music venues, too, are often crowded with tourists, making them no longer the kind of spots you can just pop into. I imagine that for the businesses themselves, there’s more to the situation than simply being pleased with the influx of customers.
As the city’s environment undergoes rapid change, it seems that more people are seriously thinking about how to continue enjoying themselves and create spaces for their own enjoyment. I’ve heard that in Kyoto, many places are now operating in a way that maintains a vibe for the local community and dedicated customers—like music spots with undisclosed addresses or “locals-only” music bars that can only be accessed through introductions from regulars. Kurochaya is one such place that fits into this context.
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The Atmosphere of the Space is Maintained by Those Who Gather
I first discovered Kurochaya in Fushimi through a friend’s Instagram. A few years ago, my friend Hayato Kamiya, who works at Kyoto’s Hachi Record Shop and Bar, shared a photo of himself playing records at a beautiful spot, and I was immediately drawn to it. Curious, I asked him, “Where is this place?” He told me, but there was no address listed anywhere on the Instagram account. When I asked for more details, I learned that Kurochaya isn’t a regular shop. Instead, it’s a mysterious space that the owner, Coji, opens occasionally for events.
Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of tourists, you step into an old Japanese house, leaving your shoes behind, and are immediately taken by the beautifully renovated interior. The furniture and decor, which complement the natural wood texture, spark a sense of wonder. As you move towards the back room with its open ceiling, you catch a glimpse of the meticulously cared-for garden. The light streaming through the windows above and the glass doors facing the garden creates an incredible sense of openness. When I visited for the first time, I couldn’t help but mutter, “Wow…” I was truly surprised to discover such a stunning hidden gem, quietly tucked away from the world.
Hayato Kamiya and Coji regularly host an event called SHELTER at this space. The event is announced through Instagram, either by Kurochaya, Coji, or Kamiya. If you send them a message, they’ll share the address, and that’s how you finally find the location.
The event runs on Sundays, from 10 AM to 3 PM. Kamiya selects records and CDs to play, while Coji brews coffee. Visitors are free to relax and enjoy their time however they like—whether that’s chatting with others, reading a book, or simply unwinding.
To get the address, you have to send a message, and then travel to a location far from the city center. This small barrier likely plays a role in maintaining the unique atmosphere of the space.
Coji and Kamiya don’t treat visitors like “customers,” and the visitors themselves aren’t there with the mindset of just receiving service. The peaceful, calming environment exists because people who truly appreciate the space gather and enjoy it freely, while also helping to preserve its charm. Every time I visit, I feel this more deeply. I believe it’s the building’s own special allure that makes you want to return and wish for it to remain open for years to come.
