In the 10th edition of our series ‘Places to Encounter Good Music,’ we shine a spotlight on ‘Whiska,’ a hidden gem nestled in Shinjuku Golden Gai.
Though ‘Whiska’ is primarily a whiskey bar, it stands apart with its distinctive approach to ambiance. Here, the carefully curated background music focuses exclusively on jazz CDs, offering a refreshing twist that sets it apart from traditional jazz bars and cafes.
Join music critic Mitsutaka Nagira as we explore this lesser-known sanctuary where great music awaits discovery.
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Quietly Operating: The Bar on Golden Gai’s Second Floor
Situated in a corner of Shinjuku’s Kabukicho, Golden Gai is one of Tokyo’s iconic historic nightlife districts, boasting nearly 300 small bars and eateries. In recent years, it has gained popularity among international tourists, and it’s not uncommon to see a stream of travelers passing through. The atmosphere feels vibrant, yet it seems the barriers to experiencing it have risen in a new way compared to the past. Personally, I’ve found myself feeling a bit hesitant about it.
According to Seiji Toshima, the owner of ‘Whiska (BAR UISCE),’ ‘While the shops at street level are bustling, many of the bars on the second floor provide a more tranquil ambiance.’ I hadn’t thought about this much before, but it’s evident that nearly every building features establishments on the second floor. It appears I’ve been missing out on the true experience of Golden Gai.
I found out about the bar ‘Whiska’ through social media, probably by chance. Occasionally, algorithms can lead to pleasant surprises. I learned that there’s a spot in Golden Gai where jazz fills the air, and that the music selection is quite distinctive. Additionally, it appeared to be a serene place to enjoy a drink. I had no reason not to visit.
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Whiskey as the Star, Featuring a Subdued Atmosphere
Located on the second floor of G1 Street in Golden Gai, Whiska is a whiskey bar stocked with single malts and old bottles. The owner, Seiji Toshima, spent many years collecting whiskey to prepare for opening a bar in Golden Gai. Once he felt ready, he patiently waited for an available space in Golden Gai before launching the current establishment in 2020.
Inside, there’s only a counter, and a row of whiskey bottles lines the front. While Golden Gai often evokes images of Showa-era charm or subculture vibes, Whiska offers a casual atmosphere with simple decor that doesn’t strongly reflect the typical Golden Gai aesthetic, making it feel approachable.
I’m not very knowledgeable about alcohol, so I can’t say much, but I’ve tried whiskies like Aran, Longrow, and Laphroaig here. When I express my preferences, they suggest options, saying things like, ‘How about this one? This whiskey is…,’ allowing me to order and enjoy something that suits my taste. If you’re not a fan of whiskey, their homemade ‘Setouchi Honey Lemon’ sour is also a great choice. By the way, although there’s no menu in the bar, there is a price list for Japanese whiskey displayed on the wall. This is due to the increasing requests from international customers for Japanese whiskey in recent years.
The bar provides a relaxed environment where jazz plays softly in the background, creating a soothing ambiance for enjoying whiskey. The volume is perfectly calibrated—not loud enough to interrupt conversations or detract from the whiskey’s flavors and aromas. In this setting, whiskey takes center stage, while jazz remains a subtle backdrop. Although requests for songs aren’t accepted, this carefully curated selection of music enhances Whiska’s unique appeal.
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Specialized Background Music Featuring Jazz CDs
Since the record boom in the 2010s, there has been an increase in cafes and bars that play vinyl records. Many of these places boast high-quality audio systems and play music at loud volumes. However, what makes Whiska interesting is that all the music played here is on CD. According to Toshima, ‘There wasn’t enough space for a record player or records in the small bar,’ but I don’t think that’s the only reason. The CD collection displayed next to the whiskey shelves reflects a clear passion. Almost all the albums here are jazz records from the mid-1980s onward. Since CD sales surpassed vinyl sales in Japan in 1986, this means the collection consists of albums from the time when CDs became the mainstream format.
The mid-1980s was a period when Miles Davis showcased his last brilliance by collaborating with young talent, and it was also a time when acoustic jazz experienced a resurgence with the emergence of Wynton Marsalis. Specifically, this was when saxophonist Kenny Garrett was selected for Miles’s band, and Wynton released his acclaimed album Black Codes. In other words, the music playing at Whiska focuses on the era after the 1950s to 1970s jazz that many other establishments highlight. Here, it is played softly in the background.
Additionally, the CDs aren’t just a random assortment; their content is exceptional and utterly captivating. For instance, if you consider Robert Glasper, you’ll find music by pianists who influenced him, like Mulgrew Miller, as well as saxophonist Kenny Garrett, who showcased a young Glasper in his band. The collection also includes earlier works by trumpeter Roy Hargrove, a major inspiration for Glasper before he embraced neo-soul, along with some of Glasper’s own early albums and recordings with peers from his generation. This collection unmistakably reflects the discerning taste of someone who truly knows and appreciates the genre.
You’ll also come across notable artists such as Nicholas Payton, Marcus Strickland, Peter Martin, Aaron Parks, Joey Calderazzo, and Christian McBride. Nestled among these CDs, you can even find contemporary jazz from emerging talents like Julius Rodriguez and Immanuel Wilkins. The carefully curated selection of CDs in this intimate bar speaks volumes about its quality.
