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Themed as BEACH × TAILORING for 2023 SS, in a collaboration with Peter Miles
– Even subtle differences could contribute to bigger changes in terms of how things look. Even the same design would provide different impressions in different countries. Could you tell us about the 2023 SS collection?
Oomaru： The theme of the 2023 SPRING SUMMER collection is “BEACH × TAILORING”, inspired by minority cultures in Africa and Central and South America, as in the 2022SS collection. The design is based on earth colors such as sand, and is intended to be worn over a swimsuit at the beach. We also used fluffy toweling fabrics and produced polo shirts made from knit saws (clothing made by cutting knitted fabrics). We also expressed a python pattern in herringbone and incorporated it into a set-up.
Oomaru： Then there are jackets. Normally, a jacket like this would have pockets on top of the fabric, but this jacket has pockets on the inside, sewn from the top, and darted.
The concept of the brand in terms of pattern is “to conform to the body regardless of who wears it by sloping the shoulders. 7 billion people have 7 billion different body shapes, and prêt-à-porter does not seem to fit everyone’s body shape. Therefore, we believe that if there is a part of the body that fits the body, the fit will change, and the most important part of OVERCOAT’s clothes is the shoulder. By having the clothes sit nicely on the shoulders, they feel lightweight and look fitted to any body type.
The first coat we made was this one, which can be adjusted by the slope of the shoulder by adding pleats at the shoulder line. These pleats open and close so that they always ride flush with the shoulders and the rest of the fabric falls nicely. The latest one brought the darts behind the shoulder line.
Oomaru： The shirts are made of yarn-dyed fabric, which looks strangely monochromatic from a distance, but upon closer inspection is striped. I am also friends with a graphic designer named Peter Miles, with whom I have collaborated on various projects. This season, Peter was amused by my photographs of walls in New York and incorporated the designs into his clothes.
