INDEX
Breaking Through the Traditional Fashion Landscape
-It’s fascinating to observe how each year reflects contemporary trends.
Kurino: Alternative elements have the potential to become classics. Just as Mozart, Beethoven, and The Beatles began as alternatives before becoming new classics, the young designers from the LVMH Prize might well establish their place within mainstream culture in the near future.
Fashion inherently has a culture where people value the emotional impact of “beautiful clothing” or the craftsmanship involved. Yet recently, with the dominance of social media and celebrity culture, there has been an increase in gimmicky sales strategies, like promoting items based on who is wearing them or their limited-edition status. Personally, I find that the trends seen in recent LVMH Prize selections better capture the true spirit of fashion, representing a return to its foundational values.
-Are there any other brands with alternative approaches that you find interesting?
Kurino：While Wales Bonner’s presentation format is quite classic, its distinct feature is the strong cultural influence present in the theme selection and the designer’s philosophy. For example, in 2019, Grace Wales Bonner held a curated exhibition titled Grace Wales Bonner: A Time for New Dreams at London’s Serpentine Gallery. This exhibition focused on African American and African British history, highlighting works by African and female writers. Additionally, two years ago, she curated the exhibition LIFE BETWEEN ISLANDS at Tate Modern. As the title suggests, this exhibition centered on the two island nations, Jamaica and the UK, exploring the mutual influence they had on each other, considering Jamaica’s history as a former British colony. These projects reflect her deep awareness of her Jamaican-British roots.
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Kurino: Traditionally, African designers have often focused on assimilation into white societies or explored identities shaped by growing up as immigrants in foreign countries. In contrast, Wales Bonner leverages her own heritage and identity, creating designs that draw from the mixed cultures of Jamaica and the UK. Grace Wales Bonner represents a new type of designer, positioned outside the conventional “fashion map” and offering a fresh perspective.
