INDEX
“Beyond Elitism” — Reflections Post-Pandemic
–How have you perceived the societal changes post-pandemic?
Kurino: Following the pandemic, I wrote a book titled The End of Fashion. From my perspective, particularly observing American consumer society, there’s been an acceleration of trends where those who accumulate wealth and retreat, or those who isolate themselves, seem to be thriving. In recent years, it feels like fashion has had a diminishing positive impact on society.
My major keyword recently has been “Beyond Elitism.” This is essentially an antithesis to elitist thinking. For instance, the systems where certain people sit in the front row of fashion shows with gifts or are invited to after-parties to get exclusive items first. Cosmetic surgery, which is more about elitist thinking than looksism, reflects this. Such ideologies contributed to the 20th-century consumer society and capitalist world, with fashion playing a role in that. However, I believe these meanings have diminished since the pandemic. Unfortunately, the Western fashion industry still seems to cling to a nostalgic desire to return to the pre-pandemic era, and I haven’t noticed much improvement or change for the better as a result of the pandemic.
Kurino: Today’s theme is also “Alternative,” and I believe the growing importance of this concept is influenced by the post-pandemic environment. In this context, Japan does not view consumption as an escape. At UNITED ARROWS, for instance, clothes that are produced with care and involve craftsmanship or processing are selling better than cheaply made, mass-produced trendy garments. Even though organic food is expensive, it sells well, and there are TV programs dedicated to creating delicious dishes with zero ingredient costs using discarded food. This reflects a Japanese appreciation for the value of effort and craftsmanship, and I find this aspect quite positive.
-Do you believe that Japan’s distinctive alternative approaches will continue to grow and evolve in the future?
Kurino： In Japanese fashion, I feel that coconogacco plays the most fascinating role. Despite seeing numerous overseas collections every year, the most exciting moments for me as a fashion enthusiast and industry professional come from coconogacco’s student works and presentations. It is a place where fashion is truly learned and where even the instructors can continue to learn. The founder, Yoshikazu Yamagata, and many of the students have heavy personal backgrounds and challenging pasts, including those who experienced truancy during their school years. By engaging in making and working with fashion, they find a form of redemption. This is not just an idealistic notion but a genuine feeling that I experience every time I comment on the students’ works. It reinforces my belief in the power of fashion and makes me deeply grateful for being in this field.
